2000 Audi A6 2.8 Passenger Side Cam Chain Tensioner Free Updated

03-20-201612:51 PM

So, I have this S6 with cold get-go rattle. I know, it's typical, simply also not a matter I think I tin can ignore. At 200k miles I need to deal with information technology. I have a gear up of pads for them.
My state of affairs is this;
#i I am NOT going to spend $700 a piece for tensioners, then the 'yous go what you pay for' lecture is out the window. I won't do information technology.
#2. At 200k miles am I fixing annihilation past replacing the pads only? I hateful, technically the tensioners tin fail even if pads are replaced. It'd be bully to experience like after doing the work I have made progress instead of merely added some time to the clock.
#3. Last time I did one was on a ii.8 Passat..like 7 years ago? I think I remember the passenger bank being doable without a agglomeration of headache, leaving timing belt in identify. But the drivers side is foggy. I can't remember..I retrieve I tin do this west/o messing with the timing belt. Anyone done information technology..?

Aaaand #4. Hither we go. Used Tensioners VS Chinese cheap ones. I take bought many Chinese knock-off parts and really have not been disappointed yet. I hateful, it seems to skilful to be true. Is it? Is information technology worse than a used one than has xx million miles and Even so costs more?

Having had pretty skilful luck with the cheap parts before I can look at is as either the parts are really Okay, OR that my luck has to run out and I'm request for disappointment?

I really need to do it presently..LAME!

03-20-201606:03 PM

ECS sells an original equipment supplier version for $219...

03-20-201607:28 PM

I've successfully used the Europa ones and those are much cheaper and very high quality as well.

Replacing the pads merely help if the pads are severely worn or broken, otherwise it doesn't solve anything.

And finally both tin can be done with the TB in place. On the 2.7T the bank ii timing cover is in the way and needs to either be bent slightly or the front cover removed and a bolt or two taken out of the rear embrace so it can move. Nix likewise crazy.

Make sure you don't tension them too far with the tool, y'all can damage them and, I know you know this, put some nice nail polish marks on the cams and chain. It's much easier than trying to count links and using cam caps for timing after.

03-20-201609:53 PM

I would love to run across a detailed write upward of this later on!

I accept only inverse chains on the 2.7. Nonetheless being the new possessor of an s6 I need to starting time the learning process once again.

03-20-201610:55 PM

Peradventure the high price for genuine O.E.M. parts is Audi's manner of getting yous to upgrade to a new car with a warranty.

It would seem to me that an Audi Allroad C5 could be kept running indefinitely if the toll of parts were reasonable.

I don't retrieve the factory envisaged people yet driving the cars sixteen years after they were sold. I visited Germany some time ago and

was told that 10 years was the cutting off point. I saw v yr erstwhile vehicles in quite good condition existence fed into a recycling machine.

In the mean time I am trying to determine whether to spend $1430 Australian dollars for two 18-carat front shock absorbers!

03-20-201611:04 PM

Last edited by rollerton; 03-20-2016 at 11:xix PM.

03-21-201612:14 AM

Yeah at 200k but gamble
Its a practiced reason to swap if it fails.

03-21-201601:30 AM

I'll chime in since I just got done due west/ all that TB maintenance BS. To remove the CCT on the commuter'south side you'll accept to remove the timing chugalug since the cam will need to be lifted to remove the cam concatenation and CCT. I've never heard of anyone being able to lift the cam chain out of the way due west/o lifting the entire cam, think the drivers side is opposite of the passenger bank w/ the tensioner on the fwd end connected by the camshaft sprocket to the belt. I don't believe y'all can create enough slack in the chain to create room to remove the tensioner itself.

In this pic I've got my lock bar in identify since I didn't take to remove the cams to get to the leaking CCT seal. To remove the entire assembly you lot'd accept to go the exhaust cam off which is the i connected by the cam sprocket to TB.

As far equally pads or whole tensioner replacement debate, I'1000 kind of in the aforementioned dilemma. I noticed a rattle on the rider side after I completed the TB job just it has since gone away afterward breaking in some expert LiquiMoly oil. I know at some betoken when I open bank ane though I'll probably find a loose chain or bad tensioner pads. I've asked my indy mechanic in the past about my Passat CCT when it was making noise and he said information technology's usually the pads or chain that stretches and not the tensioner. I've seen the pads for sale hither:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-2-Cam...tWqkOz&vxp=mtr

and it's very tempting to only go due west/ pads since it seems to be the betoken of failure non the tensioner itself. With the money saved you could pop in a new chain for extra insurance since the CCT has to come out anyways to get the lower chain pad guide. It's gonna exist a pretty involved job since you'll have to time things up after replacement, might likewise pop in new VCG's, and plugs while you're in there. I'd as well annotation to get new cam bearing cap bolts since they are torque to yield bolts (7ft lbs + xc*), don't want to snap one off in the head during reassembly.

03-21-201603:53 AM

FWIW, when I start got my a6(2.7 w/approx 165k miles) I had the place I got it from exercise the timing belt and one of the CCT pads was cracked, had the whole CCT replaced with aftermarket and haven't had any issues in the ten-15k miles since.

It's like on one paw it'southward an important part whose failure could be catastrophic, on the other hand that'southward just way likewise much dinero.

If I were u, I'd prob replace with aftermarket. Whichever you decide, skilful luck.

03-21-201607:24 AM

FWIW, several years ago when I was rebuilding my engine I merely replaced the pads for the peace of heed. While doing that, I found all the pads existence a lilliputian worn out with actual concatenation making tracks in them and one missing significant role of pads altogether. At that place was no metallic to metallic contact just withal, but enough for engine to accept slight rattle on cold.

Even though height pads might expect adept, there is a practiced take a chance that lesser pads might be cracked/worn out, particularly on passenger side where bottom of tensioner is the side that drives the tensioner concatenation.

You really don't know what you're going to find until you actually open the heads.

03-21-201608:07 AM

It's the drivers side I wan't sure about every bit far as TB goes. I remembered the rider side beingness no big deal, and..can't retrieve the drivers side. I call back may have got information technology done without removing the belt, but I call up Information technology was a bitch and would've been easier if I had.
I ordered a tensioner 'kit' from Ebay; $265 for tensioners, chains, and all the seals. I'll to the rider side equally soon every bit it shows up and hope it's the noisy i.

03-21-201610:26 AM

Quote Originally Posted by rollerton View Post

I'll to the rider side as soon as it shows up and promise information technology'southward the noisy i.

My inquiry showed bank 1 (passenger) was always the one to get out. I was in the same gunkhole w/ the rattles on that side. You may be able to squeeze the CCT out on the passenger side if you loosen the cam caps and elevator the cams to make but plenty clearance for the concatenation to come out then the CCT would merely pop out. I'd like to see what you observe under the valve covers as I couldn't go mine off due to a fuel hose that disentegrated on me. That reminds me I meliorate replace that hose soon before I develop a fuel leak. And but to make sure yous did society the right CCT for your passenger side. The driver and passenger side look similar simply work in contrary ways if installed on the wrong depository financial institution. One pushes up and the other pushes down based on the chain rotation.

03-21-201611:20 AM

Aye, passenger side no biggie..just don't experience like messing with timing belt at the moment. It was done terminal summer. Just male child is information technology LOUD in cold commencement. Shit.
Promise it makes it a few more days!
I bought both, because what the heck. HOPE it's the rider side for now.
It's definitely a budget S6 project, only it's seriously cleaning upwardly nicely. Information technology was VERY well taken care of for 200k miles. I've seen many with one-half the miles in mode worse shape.
Hither'south what yous get for $265 ebay style.

03-21-201606:41 PM

$265 for BOTH sides! WHHHHHHAAAAAAAHHT! I thought you were paying $265 for one side w/ the all the gaskets/chains, etc but for both sides is just insane.

03-21-201607:21 PM

Quote Originally Posted by bpark1210 View Post

$265 for BOTH sides! WHHHHHHAAAAAAAHHT! I idea you were paying $265 for one side w/ the all the gaskets/bondage, etc but for both sides is just insane.

Ezzzaktly...and fifty-fifty more than ezaktly when I looked closer and saw that ECS sells these ezzakt same tensioners alone for $300. Each. I mean, V8 tensioner seals and VC gaskets run you $110.
Chains are $35 each.
That makes the tensioners $50 each. For that price I'm okay if I get a few miles out of them as long as they don't destruct the engine.

03-22-201607:02 AM

Quote Originally Posted by rollerton View Post

as long as they don't destruct the engine.

And that'southward where the catch is. My hard learned dominion of thumb is: annihilation that can grenade engine directly (timing stuff, internals) must ever be either OE Audi or at least well proven upgrade (like IE rods).

03-22-201612:35 PM

Quote Originally Posted by julex View Post

And that'due south where the grab is. My hard learned rule of thumb is: annihilation that tin can grenade engine direct (timing stuff, internals) must always be either OE Audi or at least well proven upgrade (like IE rods).

Or flywheels........

03-22-201601:18 PM

Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post

Or flywheels........

touche

03-23-201606:23 AM

I am in the market for this as well!

03-25-201601:08 PM

Last edited by rollerton; 03-25-2016 at 01:24 PM.

03-25-201603:49 PM

Some thoughts...

Since a failed tensioner shouldn't crusade valve damage (atleast I don't think they can, assuming it doesn't explode!), I think the but downside is the headache of doing the job again if ane of them fails.

I am currently replacing valve cover gaskets that I installed 2.5 years ago (~12k miles) which accept started leaking. They are hard as a rock! I don't think its worth the fourth dimension to use cheap valve embrace gaskets. 12k miles, and the motorcar is non driven difficult or anything. I am putting in some Victor Reiz. Hopefully these do better. I am also coating them with HiTach gasket spray.

03-25-201604:08 PM

Those expect gooood. I'k gonna have to pick upwardly a set for "just in instance".

I can't imagine oil temps effecting the casting on the CCT fifty-fifty with junior textile, if ECS sells the same I don't encounter how they could sell a product that would fail. I'd def opt for a OE supplier chain though for extra insurance.

03-25-201606:19 PM

here is what I got:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261903969348
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-Cam-Cam...-/262206256964
both sides for nether $200 Looking for someone in VA/DC area who could install them for me, also got ii.8 camshafts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271864461229
Everyone tells me timing belt needs to come off, and asks for over 1K in labor.

03-25-201606:31 PM

Quote Originally Posted by V1nny View Post

Everyone tells me timing belt needs to come off, and asks for over 1K in labor.

i think information technology's possinle to work effectually the timing belt, and labor-wise on a 2.seven information technology would exist worth trying. passenger side doesn't wait tough, but the drivers side...i dont know. kind of think it would be more piece of work than its worth on that side. If yous could fifty-fifty manage it. I dont see a style to get the chain off that side with the belt on.

03-25-201607:59 PM

Quote Originally Posted by V1nny View Post

It doesn't hurt. But I didn't see him do the drivers side. If it is possible to practise without pulling the cam up you could non supervene upon the chain either way. Unless it has a master link..which I don't recollect it does.

03-25-201608:52 PM

If you've gone this far removing the cams is not that much more work.

03-26-201602:42 PM

Quote Originally Posted by glennda5id View Post

Some thoughts...

Since a failed tensioner shouldn't cause valve damage (atleast I don't think they can, assuming it doesn't explode!), I recall the but downside is the headache of doing the job again if one of them fails.

I am currently replacing valve encompass gaskets that I installed two.5 years ago (~12k miles) which take started leaking. They are difficult equally a rock! I don't retrieve its worth the time to use cheap valve embrace gaskets. 12k miles, and the car is non driven hard or annihilation. I am putting in some Victor Reiz. Hopefully these do ameliorate. I am besides coating them with HiTach gasket spray.

If the pad breaks and comes off it volition jump sprocket teeth and bend valves. Just the heart intake valves though.

Also pulling the intake cam on both sides make information technology a lot easier to get the cct out.
Sent from my Nexus six

03-26-201602:57 PM

Quote Originally Posted by JTown77 View Post

If you've gone this far removing the cams is not that much more than work.

This is TRUE! Until you reach the level of motivation I accept reached. Information technology'south not that much more work...just..information technology's a little more than work.
Technically I approximate I could just tilt the rad support forrard, take off serp belt, timing covers..I don't have a tool for the fan. If it wasn't for the fan I'd simply mutter a little chip...

03-28-201609:27 AM

Quote Originally Posted by rollerton View Post

This is Truthful! Until yous reach the level of motivation I have reached. It'south not that much more than work...simply..it's a little more piece of work.
Technically I guess I could simply tilt the rad support forward, take off serp belt, timing covers..I don't accept a tool for the fan. If it wasn't for the fan I'd but complain a petty flake...

Yous tin get a fan tool on amazon for $x...but a picayune bit more!

04-03-201610:49 AM

Last edited by rollerton; 04-03-2016 at 11:55 AM.

04-03-201605:43 PM

Oil pump pressure level is the crusade for the in/out I believe.

04-04-201608:03 AM

information technology goes in and out simply because intake cam (driven by chain) first gives the chain resistance (this is the "in" part) then one time you pass top of lobes, the intake cam springs ahead pushed by lifters essentially assuasive the chain to slack and tensioner to extend (the "out" function). Should the tensioner have any oil force per unit area in information technology, the "in" part would not happen and thus in that location would be no in and out... or what she said

08-08-2016xi:thirty AM

A few months back I did the passenger side of my 03 4.ii, with almost 250K miles on information technology. No problem. Now I am into the commuter'southward side and notice that I cannot get the cam or the tensioner out, the tin can encompass is in the fashion. And, the sprocket is in the way of the bolt to take the encompass loose from the other cam cap. Has anyone been able to practice this without putting information technology into the service position (taking off the forepart end)?
Thanks
Marker

08-08-201603:56 PM

Quote Originally Posted by strawmanmark View Post

Has anyone been able to do this without putting it into the service position (taking off the front end)?
Thanks
Mark

Bad news Marking...pretty much accept to take the timing chugalug off to do the drivers side. As you see in that location are a few hurdles on that bank. I can imagine someone who was adamant enough might effigy out a mode to practise it, but from what I see information technology would take twice as long and be a yuge hassle. YUGE!
Like I said earlier, from now on when I timing belt jobs I'm just going to supercede the pads on the drivers side tensioner at minimum; if not replace it outright. At that betoken It'southward a little extra labor / cost to practise something y'all can almost guarantee will need to get done anyway.

2000 Audi A6 2.8 Passenger Side Cam Chain Tensioner Free Updated

2000 Audi A6 2.8 Passenger Side Cam Chain Tensioner Free Updated

Camshaft Chain Tensioner conundrum ..

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2000 Audi A6 2.8 Passenger Side Cam Chain Tensioner Free Updated

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